Saturday, October 31, 2020

Mushroom ragout


A ragout (sometimes misnamed a ragù) is a thick spiced stew of French origin.  Traditionally it has some type of meat in it, but mushrooms were another very common component, and this version simply relies on the mushrooms entirely. I tried it out and found it to be a nice change from the usual, without being especially difficult to make.

Wild Mushroom Ragú with Creamy Polenta

Some of my alterations are simply toward more common ingredients.  I can tell you that brown cremini mushrooms work quite well, and white buttons probably would too, even if they lack some of the subtle character of wild mushrooms.  A small amount of regular yellow onion will do if you don't have a shallot.  On a less cheap note, I use real butter, and beef broth rather than veggie broth in the stew does help fill out the flavor.  And if you can manage cooking with alcohol, the red wine really makes a difference.  (I buy the cheapest one I can find at a reputable store, as I'm not drinking the stuff.)

If you want to be sure that the alcohol is pretty well gone from the finished dish, add the red wine at the beginning, and allow it to go dry as the mushrooms brown.  Some moisture at the beginning helps to start softening mushrooms, and this way only the flavor remains, soaked into them.

I had difficulties with the polenta, because several different dry products are sold under that label.  Pay attention to the cooking instructions, and if it says "ready in three minutes", don't expect to be simmering it for 15-20 as this recipe suggests.  Mine set up hard almost as soon as I'd finished stirring it into the rice milk, and I ended up adding more water and milk while stirring, until it made the sort of thick pudding (spoonable, not pourable) that would be a good bed for the ragout.  So if you don't already know the character of your polenta, set a little time aside to get to know it.

I have also made this ragout and served it over rice pasta, usually penne, and it makes a fantastic meal.  I suspect it might be served over rice, like stroganoff, and still be fine.  Play around with it and see what you like.

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